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Bones (Restaurant)

Picture of Bones in Shoreditch, London

52 Kingsland Road, Hoxton, Shoreditch, London, E2 8DP
Cuisine: Meat
Tel: 020 7003 9008 | Email to Bones | Transport: Hoxton | Write review

Bones Review

Top 10 things you need to know about Bones restaurant:

1) Great name - gets to the marrow bone of the matter. Hear it, think meat. When your inner cave person gets a thirst for gnawing oozy, squelchy flesh, Bones is where you want to head in your Flintstones mobile.

2) Great logo too. Nice and bony. Simple, bold. I saw it and my hopes were high. I wanted to grab a chicken bone and stick it through my hair, Betty style.

3) But here’s the steak rub. Bones wasn’t cave woman enough for me. And if it wasn’t for me – who’ll happily opt for the goats cheese tartlet over pork belly – then it sure as hell won’t wash for those who love to grab a rib and obliterate it faster than a T Rex who’s missed elevenses.

4) I have a bone to pick with Bones. Why aren’t you meatier? Your name plays right into the current trend for all things carnivore. Think Meat Liquor, think Beard to Tail.

5) And funny-boning your way into the heart of Shoreditch, you’re perfectly placed. Hipsters might look like vegans, but the number of trendy, meaty establishments here says otherwise.

6) I had a delicious piece of steak – the 8oz Deadham Vale sirloin with marrow bone. It was cut up rustic-fashion on a board just how Fred likes. My companion had a roasted rack of lamb with herb crust, which was very nice, although not blow the socks off.

7) There’s rotisserie free range chicken by the quarter, half or whole, a 1lb T-bone with garlic herb butter, and confit duck leg. It all feels very polite.

8) Bones screams messier. Where are the ribs, the wings, more marrow to spread on hunks of bread, big bony stock-filled soups and casseroles? Where’s the grr?

9) I enjoyed the vegetables more than the meat. You could actually bring a vegetarian here. Sharing sides included macaroni cheese with leeks. An Ottolenghi-esque roasted aubergine, feta, pomegranate, chilli with tahini dressing. Warm lentil salad with pan-fried halloumi. Starters, a beautiful Burrata cheese with basil oil and sourdough, and pan-fried artichoke hearts.

10) Here’s the bare bones of it. The food was great, inventive in parts. But Bones promises more. I sensed a new restaurant which didn’t quite know what it wanted to be.
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Venue ID: 24548

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