Angelus (Bar, Restaurant)

Top 10 things we discovered about Angelus French restaurant when we visited:

1) The last time we reviewed this restaurant in 2010, our critic said of Thierry - restaurant owner and former Gavroche employee - “Never have I met a man with such a magnetic character.” In the last 3 years, nothing has changed; he’s still a charming French interpretation of Kevin Spacey, warmly shaking hands and kissing cheeks.

2) Evening should always begin with a glass of signature champagne in the plush, relaxing lounge, where that enormous mirror, those Art Deco lampshades, those velvety couches, and that veil curtain, are sadly just too big to steal.

3) “It’s not nice, it’s orgasmic,” proclaims Thierry poetically, of the duck liver crème brûlée foie gras. He also sees Angelus (pronounced “on-zjel-loose”) as your own, the kind of place you might bring a mistress (did I mention he’s French?).

4) Good to see that Thierry paid attention to my clarion backing for freshly printed daily menus; keep it seasonal, my friend.

5) A strategic garlic mushroom amuse-bouche is only the beginning.

6) The diverse menu is luxurious yet attainable. Vegetarian options: limited. Pescatarian: better. Carnivorous: bonjour and ça va?! Both the braised snail and the earthy woodpigeon entrées are complex; and the modern art mains are cascades of colourful glee. The stuffed saddle of rabbit with livers has the soft, salty tender satisfaction of pig; thank Thierry for rabbit-pig!

7) Strategic spotlighting makes your meal the star of the show, and the use of mirrors, leather banquettes, wooden panelling and chandeliers give the small restaurant a large, classy personality, inspiring some guests to even don a dinner jacket.

8) For those who prefer to wear a lot less, especially in the name of romance, ask about the ultimate unique date table. It’s a little heated, and provides front row action, but at £75 for 5 courses, it is sexy.

9) I constantly grapple with the notion of abstaining from alcohol for the remainder of my days, but one sip of the Chateau Bouscasse Les Larmes Celestes dessert wine and I realise it’s a futile idea. I succumb!

10) Elegant yet homely, romantic yet sociable, intricate yet modest. That Angelus is mere minutes from Hyde Park, Oxford Street and Paddington station begs the question: why is there not a queue outside? My lone criticism: a dearth of music....read more