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Corrigan's Mayfair by Richard Corrigan (Restaurant)

Picture of Corrigan's Mayfair by Richard Corrigan in Mayfair, London

28 Upper Grosvenor Street, Mayfair, London, W1K 2NG
Cuisine: British Average Price: £75.00
Tel: 020 7499 9943 | Email to Corrigan's Mayfair by Richard Corrigan | Transport: Marble Arch | Write review

Corrigan's Mayfair by Richard Corrigan Review

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The two months of fallow airtime between Masterchef series are always a difficult time, and we all have different ways of dulling the ache. My girlfriend (henceforth known as Bea – something inside me dies every time I write ‘partner in crime’) has bravely gone cold turkey, going to all sorts of lengths to take her mind off things. As I write, she’s alphabetising old correspondence (we’re up to E, for EDF, after that we go straight to V for Vodafone). Yesterday she nearly signed up to a Dance Fusion class at LA Fitness. Strange times.

I’ve admired her inner strength from the sofa, as I binge helplessly on yet another quadruple bill of Great British Menu. It’s a poor substitute for the jump cut genius of Jon and Greg, but it’s all I’ve got.

Still, I can’t ignore the faintly depressing way in which the GBM contestants – some of the finest culinary minds in the country, as we’re constantly reminded – toady up to the camera like the most callow reality show debutantes. ‘You’re better than this! You’re amongst the finest culinary minds in the country!’ I shout as they snivel for the umpteenth time about how the producers are the stars, and of their revolutionary plans to ‘deliver on flavour’. Or at least I would shout, were I not hypnotised into obedient silence by Jenny Bond’s schoolma’amly tones.

Great British Menu might be distinctly second division, but Richard Corrigan’s appearances on the show are unmistakeably different class. He’s a born star, peacocking around the kitchen on a train of perfectly-conceived and convincingly delivered putdowns, while his peers dribble on about how their dish is ‘putting Great Britain/Summer/the-chef’s-heart-and-soul (delete as appropriate) on a plate.’

Like all the worst armchair pundits, I’ve developed theories as to how Corrigan is able to steer clear of such clichés (although as a pioneer of nose-to-tail cookery he perhaps wouldn’t be all that averse to the idea of chef’s heart on a plate).

A man who made his name at Bentley’s Oyster Bar, Corrigan’s approach seems that of a man who treats cookery as not so much a science, not so much an art, but as something that comes from deep within, as tied up with passion as a post-coital cigarette. It’s a thing of rare beauty, not to be trivialised.

Conveniently, my theory is borne out by a visit to his eponymous Mayfair restaurant. Corrigan’s of Mayfair is many things, pretty much all of them wonderful. Above all, though, it’s serious – and passionate – about food.

That’s not to say, of course, that everything else can go hang. A narrow, low-ceilinged and softly lit space, with a lengthy bar dominating the front half of the room, it’s an intimate setting. The finer details of the decor, from the copper-coloured lampshades to the tiny pheasants that crown the silver tea sets, are a delight. Even so, to the number of corpulent diners who eat with their serviettes tucked firmly into their collars, you sense these incidentals are, well, incidental. They’ve realised an important truth: here, it’s all about the food.

And what food! We start with a ravioli of suckling pork, slow cooked and sweet, topped off with roasted lobster and balanced out by a sauce – made from shellfish stock, squid ink and spinach – that’s salty, but salty like liquorice. This is no gimmick - just bewitchingly good, imaginative cooking. The veal tongue (a nod to Corrigan’s nose-to-tail background) is perhaps a bad choice for the squeamish – when in Rome, don’t always do as the Romans do.

The mains are an unmitigated triumph. My saddle of rabbit, with girolles, celeriac puree, and a tiny liver pate is complex, but unfussy; witty but not showy. Bea’s sea trout with shellfish hollandaise is simple, and simply perfect. Finished off by a rhubarb soufflé that all but has me laughing out loud in admiration, it really is quite a meal.

The man himself makes a brief appearance during our meal. His new flagship may not have provided him with a third rubber stamp from the tyremakers’ men just yet, but watching admiring heads turn as he makes a brief sortie to the bar, it’s quite clear that Richard Corrigan’s star remains on the rise.
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Customer Reviews for Corrigan's Mayfair by Richard Corrigan

Average (based on 1 votes): 1 Atmosphere: Value: Quality:

The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Corrigan's Mayfair by Richard Corrigan.

“five stars dunt do it justice - blinding meal.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
arthur, london (8 years 1 months 7 days ago)

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Corrigan's Mayfair by Richard Corrigan Food & Drinks

  • Cuisine Type: British
  • Average Price: £75.00

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"Hi guys, I come here with my friends and have very good time. I like your place very much and is very good times. I come back when I can soon. Thank you very much." Which venue is this?

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"Dreadful pub, run by people who have zero idea about hospitality or running a pub. Upon arrival we sat in the back garden that only had one other table occupied , when we tried to order off the lunch menu..." Which venue is this?

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