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Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green (Bar, Restaurant)

Picture of Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green in Ladbroke Grove & Kensal, London

19 Kilburn Lane, Ladbroke Grove & Kensal, London, W10 4AE
Cuisine: Modern European
Tel: 020 8969 0098 | Email to Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green | Transport: Kensal Green | Write review

Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green Review

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Best for: getting away from it all.

Great: desserts; wine list; haven in northwest London.

“We interrupt this programme for an important news flash. Everything is fine. All is well with the world. Thank you. We now return you to our normal programming.”

Never happens, does it? When breaking news does occur, it’s negative and it’s usually in the middle of a particularly gripping scene of hilarity involving a rambunctious cat, a precarious fish tank, and a can full of laughter during Animals Do The Funniest Things, which makes the imminent ‘The World Is About To Explode’ newscast all the more harrowing as your mind shifts through the gears from glee to grief within seconds. It’s never a documentary about war-deformed, sex slave orphans that’s interrupted by a live breaking story from the Edinburgh Fringe where the funniest joke of the festival has just been announced, is it?

Ergo, bad stuff interrupts good stuff. Not the other way round.

However, lest you forget, “Thy God Hath Sent Forth Strength For Thee”. These are the words inscribed for all to see in Paradise, which, as you know, is in Kensal Green. This Paradise punctures London’s glumness with sharp mirth, like a doctor taking time out from informing unfortunate souls about their incurable cancer for a quick bout of tickling. In this grimy corner of London, as in most, it’s commonplace to see crumbling walls, vacant business lots, and skies so despondent they cry instead of rain, which makes the incongruent existence of Paradise even more apposite.

Rather than a front bar filled with posturing and shouting over tinnitus-level music, the subdued drawing room in Paradise serves as a lazy leather couch waiting room, where ale drinkers while away a few moments before being called through to the candlelit Shangri-La antique showroom, otherwise known as the restaurant. This room is filled with dust collectors - vintage rocking horses, stuffed peacocks, curtains, chandeliers, portraits, angels, madonnas (it must be a bugger to keep clean) - and empty bird cages, which provoke notions of freedom and liberation from the merciless existence outside. Marie Antoinette would have been well up for it; and by ‘it’ I mean Baroque/Rococo style, not the other thing.

The passengers on this journey are noticeably varied: a group in their late 30s who possibly grow their own vegetables; a table of octogenarians speaking more than one language; a glamourous couple who surely must be pop stars; a family group, likely from da hood of Maida Vale.

Even though the entree menu reads expensively and lavishly - the frisse salad with black pudding, pancetta, boiled egg, and mustard dressing is breakfast at 8 o’clock at night - and even though they are well portioned and swiftly delivered, bypass the starters in order to fund the girth needed to accommodate the outstanding mains and desserts of grandeur. Vegetarians, look away now; your options are limited to braised artichoke on a menu that is littered with references to meaty provenance.

Now, I’m not usually one for fowl play, but I was quite enamoured with the large plate of Goosnargh chicken fillet with summer veggies and gnocchi. The recommended samphire side really brought it to life (not literally). Gooey sauce, rich and eggy, yet light as a summery main should ever hope to be. The giant slab of roast Lonk lamb consumed by the lady dining opposite looked far too filling for me, but she was happily convinced.

The Zone 1 pricing is warranted. The proof of this is in the pudding. The dessert choices were many, the essence was English - berries, farmhouse, elderflower used wantonly - and I’m almost tempted to claim that we saved the best till last. Her wedge of blackcurrant mousse, summer berries and lemon tuille was big and beautiful enough to share; although she didn’t. Instead, I took up the challenge of the immaculately presented chocolate raspberry delice with kirsch pannacotta and Scottish raspberry sorbet, and I was right to do so. Bloody (and) delicious.

A word to the wine: the extensive tome was almost overwhelming, covering geographical, financial, and receptacle ranges. Fumbling in the middle ground between a heavy red for her and a refreshing white pour moi, we plonked for a chilled red. Her name was J Lohr Wildflower Valdiguié, she was American, but she spoke like a French Beaujolais.

Paradise is eternal, it never stops. Which is why the above comments only scratch the surface of Paradise’s capabilities. There’s much more to discover yet, in the gardens, the sun-blessed terraces, the live cabaret, comedy, and music, not to mention the (questionably) angelic singing voices emanating from the private karaoke room. Essentially, there’s loads of good stuff to interrupt the bad stuff, for a change. more

Customer Reviews for Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green

Average (based on 7 votes): 7 Atmosphere: Value: Quality:

The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green.

“Beautifully elegant restaurant, stylish library-like front bar, secret little roof terrace, a verdant alfresco beer garden, an upstairs bar for events, and a secret karaoke room with its own 'booze' summoning button. Really, what else would anyone need?! Oh, a MASSIVE wine list, friendly service, and some fantastic mains and desserts, of course. It has it all.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
The Restaurant Hunter, London (9 years 6 months 7 days ago)

“I was taken to Paradise on a date last week. I had been before a few years ago and when he told me that is where we going, I was not impressed to say the least. Thankfully, it was nothing like my last visit. The decor was modern yet homely. The cliental was very pleasant west Londoners and my food was delicious indeed. Service was casual and friendly and we were not asked to leave the table after out desserts and coffees. (A personal grip of mine) . I will be back with the girls for sure”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Elizabeth Holland, London (10 years 10 months 8 days ago)

“Really impressed with paradise on the whole. Went for dinner there on a week night and had a great meal, which was surprisingly good value. I never usually eat steak at restaurants but the concept of raisin & mustard butter was intriguing and wasnt i dissapointed. ended up going there on the weekend too for a night out, quality night even if there was a little cue to get in. if i lived a little closer would go regularly but definately will be returning!”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Toby Lamont, London (11 years 3 months 26 days ago)

Show all user reviews for Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green

“What an absolute dive bar, and in all the worst ways possibe, i had the worst experience of my life at this pub! The food was terrible, the service was terrible, do not go there, please go somewhere else if you value your sanity!”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
spam hay, london (13 years 2 months 15 days ago)

“The only place to spend sundays”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Vicki Vipond, [ Unknown ] (16 years 9 months 22 days ago)

“I've only been to the bar once and am now kicking myself for not venturing in earlier. The decor is fun, colourful and doesn't take itself to seriously and appears to attract people with similar personalities. I'm looking forward to eating at the restuarent, just waiting for a good excuse. I had a look around and can't stop thinking about having my partner's birthday party here!”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Bec, [ Unknown ] (17 years 1 months 3 days ago)

“I've been going to the Paradise for 9 years and must say the last 2 have just seen it get better and better. They have just received a good beer award that The William IV was refused; this year they got a les Routiers award too. I can't get a table for next sunday lunch which I think beats the pants off any other pub. The Paradise is an unpretentious place where people can maintain their anonymity unlike WIV. As far as the atmosphere and interior I think the word the author missed is 'Bohemian'. In fact, I saw the bar area used on the front cover of ES magazine a few months ago and saw a film crew going in there on my way to work last week. Did myvillage actually go to the right place? Holly 26, Kensal Rise”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
holly B, [ Unknown ] (18 years 2 months 21 days ago)

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Paradise offers modern European cuisine with an oriental touch in a truly bohemian atmosphere.

Updated 01/03/2007

Additional Information

  • Cuisine Type: Modern European
  • Dress Code: Not Specified
  • Group: Columbo Group

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