Azou Restaurant (Restaurant)

There’s something indisputably appealing about its classic Moroccan décor that makes Azou such a warm and authentic place to eat. The rich colours and clean lines which epitomise this now-popular North African theme create a genuinely welcoming and laid-back ambience, with brass lamps and lanterns providing a flattering and relaxed light. Authentic music helps set the scene perfectly, and the low engraved metal tables and padded sofas in the back corners are perfect for some serious post-dinner lounging. With the main road outside obscured by ornamental screens it is quite easy to pretend you are somewhere infinitely more exotic than Hammersmith…

The restaurant itself is undoubtedly small – when I first arrived I expected there to be a second room in the back – but this is no bad thing, adding to the intimate atmosphere. I had broken the habit of a lifetime and arrived early, so enjoyed a traditional cup of sweet mint tea while I waited. It was beautifully served in an ornate metal and glass cup that was so incredibly cute that I was tempted to pocket it (I didn’t, of course!). I’m a big fan of mint tea, so I was delighted to see huge fresh leaves tucked into the glass – none of your Twinings nonsense here, thank you very much!

By the time my friend arrived I had read the menu a few times but wasn’t really much closer to making any sort of decision. She ordered a Moroccan beer (I know! So butch!) in the name of research and we chose a selection of starters to share, working from the time-honoured theory that we would be able to taste more that way. This may have been our first mistake. Although falafel, briouat (pastry filled with brie and goat’s cheese) and two dips (hummus and baba ganoush) may not sound like a huge amount of food, two things soon became clear: firstly, Azou don’t do half portions; and secondly, that we weren’t actually ‘tasting’ at all, but were instead rapidly consuming vast quantities of delicious food. Oops.

But it really was absolutely incredible. The hummus was amazing – creamy and beautifully seasoned – and, to be honest, I’d have been happy with a bucket of that and the homemade pita bread that came with it. But then I’d have missed out on the World’s Most Amazing Falafel and that would have been an actual crime. By a marvellous turn of fate the other side of the table preferred the pastries and aubergine dip so we managed to get through this part of the meal without bloodshed (although it was touch and go when the lovely waitress tried to remove our dips to make room for the main course.)

We both ordered tagines for our mains, which were served in the traditional earthenware that gives the dish its name. The conical lids (which are flamboyantly removed at the table) allow the steam to condense back into the food, strengthening the flavours. Technical, huh? Well, it works. My berber tagine was a tomato-based delight of beautifully spiced fresh vegetables, while the tajine romanne – chicken cooked in pomegranate sauce and garnished with almonds, raisins and caramelised onion – although a touch rich, was fruity and sweet and the meat was perfectly cooked.

After managing to make a respectable dent in that course, the last thing we wanted was more food. But we were there to review the restaurant, dammit, so review it we would! By strategically opening a few buttons we managed to share some lovely little baklavas and a gorgeous lemon sorbet drizzled with orange blossom sauce (I know, I know. I’m good to you aren’t I. You can thank me later). But in truth, it wasn’t that hard.

Everything about Azou was wonderful, from the friendly, attentive service right through to the unhurried atmosphere and reasonable prices. And of course the food speaks for itself. If it sounds like I’m enthusing – I am. And I don’t care. Go there, enjoy the most authentic Moroccan meal you’ll have this side of Africa, and you’ll understand.
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