The Fox (Bar)

You really enjoy that post-work food and wine coma, don’t you? So what would you say to inducing it in an area that is blessed with inhabitants that look like they’ve just escaped from an institution, Orlando (not as posh as Kentucky) Fried Chicken and the obligatory closed-down carpet store littered with unclaimed mail and circus-coming-to-town posters? Well, you’d probably say something like, “Oh gosh, I’ve just remembered I haven’t seen my ailing father-in-law lately and he wanted me to go round to give him his sponge bath”. And who could blame ya really, this place is as cramped and dirty as chicken coup! But add a Fox amongst those chickens and things suddenly become a lot better.

She’s a young little vixen this one. She’s only been scabbing round the bins of north-east London since December ‘05 but already has a shiny coat and a bite worth barking about.

The ‘bite’ is delivered thanks to Emperor Maximo, the Sicilian manager, who bravely took leave of Jamie Oliver’s employment in order to reign over The Fox. Thankfully, he’s also UNtrained in the art of concrete shoe fitting….but just in case, man what a guy! He could charm the ass off a donkey!

The menu, which changes monthly depending on patronage favourites, is exceptional for a gastropub in its near-total organic domination (and that includes the wine list). The TLLA (Tasty Lamb Liberation Army) have been slacking off lately because the herb-crusted variety borders on the illegally delicious and the accompanying bubble and squeak is by far THE best mash-based product since Alan Alda!! And the chocolate mousse with Amaretto is like eating the entire cast of Honey, I Shrunk The Yorkie Bars, only with no need for a sequel.

The shiny ‘coat’ previously mentioned is of the bare brick and muddled furniture standard with the addition of a retractable screen cometh the footballing hour (as long as Italy is playing). This is not a usual feature (only during the World Cup), and unusual features include some interesting artwork and twinkling ceiling lights.

Overall, visiting The Fox without an empty stomach is like jumping off a bridge without a bungee, you’ll have a completely different experience if you’re unprepared.

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