The Grill on the Market (Restaurant)

Best for: unashamed carnivores.

Great: steaks, seafood and cocktails.

To the ever-swelling ranks of the London food brigade, the humble steak is a thing of ineffable and enduring mystery.

It is, to all intents and purposes, a grilled hunk of cow with minimal garnish, and some perfunctory greens on the side purely for form’s sake. Surely by now we should have moved on to more advanced and nuanced dishes, consigning this brutish, rustic remnant of yesteryear to the culinary scrap heap? Not to mention the ethical hand wringing that plagues the conscientious meat-eater these days.

Such were the stylistic and environmental concerns wracking our thoughts as we pondered the unashamedly carnivorous menu at Farringdon’s Grill on the Market restaurant. That is until the actual steaks arrived, at which point we changed our mind completely and wondered aloud why one would order anything else on an evening out.

Grill on the Market cares not a jot for your bleeding-heart lamentations and aesthetic quibbles. In fact, every aspect of the venue – from its location opposite the foremost meat market in London to its ruthlessly efficient high-temperature grill – is precisely and devastatingly engineered to deliver the most astounding steaks you’ll ever eat, at reasonable prices to boot.

Of course, ever the consummate professionals, we sampled the many other pleasures the Grill had to offer before turning our attention to the main event.

The décor is first-rate, with an atmospheric bar area leading up to a set of multi-level dining rooms with tastefully low lighting, a versatile seating arrangement and soothing live music from talented local musicians. The monochrome decoration is simple but effective, conjuring up just the requisite level of decadence and relaxation.

The trimmings complemented our ensuing, undignified meat frenzy to perfection, from the deliciously creamy chicken pâté starter to the overwhelming wine list and inventive cocktails, betraying an impressive strength in depth; credit is due in particular to the venue’s resident mixologist for a wood smoke-infused Old Fashioned that arrived in an overflowing druid’s gourd (possibly).

Taking top billing, though, was a veritable steak buffet of the day’s choice cuts, presented with justified fanfare by our waiter, and sumptuous enough to floor even the hardiest of critics.

Smaller options are naturally available for those just passing through – and the Grill attracts a devoted lunchtime contingent from the offices of nearby Farringdon and Barbican - but enthusiasts would do well to devote an entire evening to, say, the Châteaubriand for two (a shade over 50 notes) or a prime Wagyu fillet.

Seafood plays an under-recognised role as well, with the whole grilled lobster an obvious standout.

After such an onslaught of meat, we were barely able to raise our heads long enough to take in a thoroughly excellent spread of desserts, ranging from the intriguing (red velvet cake with kumquat clotted cream) to the comforting (chocolate and black cherry torte).

Meals at the Grill truly are a marathon, not a sprint, but the general good humour of both the staff and our dining companions was enough to see us through to the finish line.

It seems the Grill on the Market has not overestimated our propensity to check all snobbery and inhibitions at the door, every once in a while, to indulge in pure culinary pleasure. Here is a place where meat-eaters from all over London can congregate, with nary a hint of guilt or apprehension, and eat some of the best damn steak in the Square Mile in a wonderfully comfortable, relaxed environment. Like I said: simple, but oh-so-effective....read more