Morgan M Review
Top 10 things we learned about Morgan M French restaurant when we visited:
1) Reactionary menus show proper thought and seasonal awareness; so when London provides us with clement weather, chilled gazpachos, savoury sorbets and a multitude of coulis are always welcoming coolants; especially if they’re colourful and served to the sound of disco music; oh-yeah!
2) Always put faith in a brief, freshly printed menu, especially if a perky head of good hair delivers it.
3) The Red Mullet is a medley of textures (meaty fish with gloopy fennel puree) and, equally, the pollock provides plenty of distraction from the alluring meat options (disappointingly though, the Dorade Royale was a dumb blonde of a seafood starter: nice to look at, but lacking any real substance).
4) Vegetarians, note the restaurant’s 6-course ‘From The Garden’ tasting menu for £48, plus the Zagat and Time Out awards previously won for its vegetarian cuisine....
5) ...and yet, these, and various other awards, were earned during the early noughties. Tellingly perhaps, the awards cupboard has been a bit empty these past 3 years.
6) This is a mum and dad restaurant. The traditional French cuisine is splashed with enough modernity to make them feel exciting and it’s a halfway posh restaurant (yes, those are white tablecloths, but yes, that is a wooden floor). Plus, Erykah Badu and Norah Jones have invaded the speaker system, olive pastel colours exude parentalism, and high art is only a short stroll away at that there Barbican Centre.
7) It’s also a restaurant for wining and dining your mistress. Discreet frosted windows and ornate screen divides maintain privacy, whilst paired tables are set at a schmooching 90-degree angle, and, depending on the day of the week, the entire restaurant might well be yours and yours alone.
8) A light Chilean Sauvignon Blanc Reserve evokes a frisson of delight when combined with the satisfying brainy texture of snails ravioli, the French haggis.
9) The French love a liquid. Just look at all that red wine jus, sauce vierge, cream of broad bean, lobster froth, and strawberry soup, poured on by the maitre D’, because us diners cant be trusted to do it ourselves, clearly.
10) Bring your credit card. Cheap, this is not. Starters weigh in well beyond £10 and desserts are close behind. The restaurant’s tasting menu speciality (£52), however, comes with classy pre-course cleansers served as standard....read more
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- Cuisine Type: French
- Group: (Independent/Freehouse)
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