Lupita (Restaurant)

Best for: budget flights to Mexico by way of east London’s Spitalfields.

Great: Mexican tacos, tacos, tacos!

I’m not really one for flying. I’ve seen Snakes On A Plane and Con Air. It doesn’t end well, up there. Boats cant be trusted either; watch Titanic or A Perfect Storm if you don’t believe me. This makes visiting far away countries on the other side of the Atlantic reasonably problematic for me.

You’ve heard the phrase, “If Mohammed won't come to the mountain, the mountain must come to Mohammed”. Well, in my world, if Christian - that’s me - wont go to the Americas, then the Americas must come to Christian.

Lucky for me London is such a great provider. She’s shown me the streets of Cuba (Floridita), the carnivals of Brazil (Floripa and Guanabara), the thick steaks and Malbec of Argentina (Gaucho), and the bourbon-and-blues of the USA (Camden Blues Kitchen). Even little Peru has been claiming a slice of the Americas pie on London’s scene of late (Lima and Cerviche).

In short, I am able to unravel this rich cultural tapestry that London is famous for without ever needing to purchase a Spanish dictionary. It’s all right here on my non-life-threatening doorstep. Plus, even though I’ve been assured by several non-vertiginous, itinerant amigos of mine that Mexico is a lovely place to visit, it is still roughly one arduous flight away, including a stop-off in Christ-are-we-there-yet-!

So if El Camion Mexican restaurant in Soho got me as close to Mexico as, say, the Bahamas, and if Wahaca’s Mexican street food and colourful decor got me as close to Mexico as Jamaica, then the new Lupita Mexican restaurant in east London has me dipping my toes in the Gulf of Mexico from the Parque Nacional Peninsula de Guanahacabibes in west Cuba, such is its Mexican authenticity.

The only reason it lands just shy of Mexico is the omission of a suitable interior. The austere white walls and sparse layout could do with some funk: splashes of colour, wood, and the odd Mexican road sign to give it more of a Mexican vibe than the Mexican mariachi playlist tries to deliver by itself.

The vast menu, though, is Mexico City all the way, And not the dangerous Mexico City in Amores Perros either. There are no Tex-Mex fajita cowboys here. Just remarkably affordable - considering the portion sizes and fresh quality - traditional Mexican food from the time of the Mayans. We have them to thank for dark chocolate, after all.

So how did I get to within a lengthy, shark-infested swim of Cancun? I was transported there by a farrago of texture, spice, colour and temperature, served with a slice of brio, some piquant lime zest, and a side of smile.

The literal translation for Lupita is ‘Mother Home of the Flavoursome Taco’ so do not dare leaving the restaurant without sacrificing at least one portion. The smoky pastor tacos (BBQ pork fillet and bacon served with pineapple) will appease the taco Gods; for a while.

Also, sharing is mandatory, so do not attempt to eat alone otherwise you will be tarnished as a pariah of your community, William NoMates! A visit to Lupita is reason enough to procure new friends, what with the amount of tostadas, tortas, quesadillas, burritos, soups. salads, South American wines, Mexican beers, mezcals, and tequilas worth trying.

This is not silverware and napkins tucked into the shirt collars, either. This is fingers, messy place mats, and washing your hands before rubbing your eyes.

This is meant to be fun, so if you’re confused by the menu, try something you’ve never had before, such as the earthy huitlacoche Mexican truffle quesadilla, or the quesa fundido, which is probably the world’s biggest tortilla chip (made of cheese).

Any dish involving avocado should be top of your hit list, especially the guacamole artisanal to start which is prepared freshly at your table. I’d also aim for the fish dishes as they prove that salubrious Mexican food does not have to rely heavily on beans and cheese. It’s lighter than that (until the churros with cajeta turn up). The ceviche and the tostada de Atun Intramar yellowfin tuna are both ten types of yum; the latter possessing so much kick, it could take penalties for England, once it was granted the requisite working visa, obviously.

The chef is Mexican, the ingredients are Mexican, 45% of the customers are Mexican, so, Mexico, thanks all the same, but I might have myself an edifying sojourn in Mexico City from the comfort of my own London-based casa (Lupita), if you don’t mind.

I’ll still be doing my bit for Mexico though. A portion of the profits goes to a Mexican charity providing a brighter future for kids, through enchiladas. Hooray for enchiladas, or, as my co-pilot put it: “seriously the best Mexican I’ve ever had in my life.”...read more