Green's Restaurant & Oyster Bar (Bar, Restaurant)

With the Bank of England and the Royal Exchange as its lofty neighbours, it was inevitable that Green’s at Cornhill wasn’t going to be an eat-and-run kind of establishment. The newly-opened sister restaurant of the reputable St. James’s Oyster Bar, is predictably all city-gents-in-bowler hats (think Rene Magritte’s iconic The Son of Man - you know, the apple guy), though it’s a touch more modern than its predecessor.

The restaurant and its downstairs watering hole, The Runner Bar, sit proudly in a grade II listed edifice, which dates back to the days of yore- cant remember the precise dates; history was never one of my strong points. What’s more, this impressive building was once the site for Lloyds Banking Hall (Not much use for such grand surroundings now, eh Lloyds?). Inside, a vast ceiling and neo-classical columns preside over an oval shaped bar in the centre and on a raised platform beneath a large, hanging Art Deco clock, a live jazz band entertains Friday after work drinkers. I was immediately reminded of New York’s Grand Central Station.

Two middle-aged men dressed like 1930s Chicago Mafiosi playing an unoriginal score of ‘Fly Me to the Moon’ has the potential to veer dangerously close to gimmickry, but their presence did help to recreate something of the elegance of a lost era. As we sipped our aperitifs at the bar, I couldn’t help but be impressed with the set up, though I wondered, with such a big space to fill, would the punters still be piling in on a wet Monday night?

Upstairs was much quieter and didn’t pick up when we left at 9.30, though I’m told the restaurant is packed on Wednesday and Thursday evenings and booked out almost every lunchtime.

After the Art Deco grandeur of the bar, the décor here feels a little sedate. Fern green leather booths, pictures of old school jockeys and hefty, leather bound wine lists, all conspire to give Green’s the air of an exclusive old boys’ club, a place where deals are made with a knowing wink.

The food, I have to say, is great and is served by efficient and attentive staff with a decent knowledge of the menu. Traditional English fare dominates: Bubble & Squeak, ham hock and plenty of British seafood, all presented in elegant portion sizes.

I went veggie for the evening and tucked into a goat’s cheese and spinach tart followed by wild mushrooms, cabbage and barley in a tomato sauce, while my partner went down the more traditional route of oysters, and steak and chips. Not one for the slippery buggers, I was satisfied to experience them vicariously. So, the Carlingford Lough oysters were delicious and the steak, well seasoned and cooked to perfection.

As for the veggie dishes, I struggled to come to terms with the £14 price tag for what is essentially a plate of leaves and lentils, but it was damn tasty. Our meal was washed down with a selection of well-chosen (if I do say so myself) wines from a comprehensive and considered list. Those feeling less confident about their pairings can avail of the restaurant’s sommelier.

We finished off with Cambridge burnt cream accompanied by damsons and a tuile biscuit. It was wonderfully moreish without tipping us into a food coma. The four quid charge for my habitual mint tea was risible but then again, this is the City and I can’t see too many bankers scoffing at this.

The food here, while undoubtedly very good, won’t necessarily make it a lasting success. I worry Green’s Cornhill will struggle to find its niche in the market. I’m not sure whether it wants to compete with the top restaurants in the City (or if it is indeed able to) or does it seek to bridge the gap between the best, modern restaurants in the area and very good chains? Is it a restaurant that’s attached to a bar? Or a good restaurant that has a very fine bar? The difference may be subtle but these things matter. Where it fits into the grand scheme of City eateries remains to be seen, but I wouldn’t hesitate in recommending you head along and decide for yourself.
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