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Bishopsgate Kitchen (Restaurant)

Picture of Bishopsgate Kitchen in City of London, London

4 Brushfield Street, Spitalfields, City of London, London, E1 6AN
Cuisine: European
Tel: Not on file | Email to Bishopsgate Kitchen | Transport: Liverpool Street | Write review

Bishopsgate Kitchen Review

Best for: dry white wines; chorizo Scotch eggs; retro romance in a Liverpool Street restaurant.

Great: glass-fronted views of the characters playing out scenes from the drama known as Life In The City Of London.

Admit it, London is full of gaps. They’re chuffing everywhere, making a nuisance of themselves, getting in the bins and everything. There’s a solution to ridding the city of this bothersome scourge: stuff the bastards! Fill ‘em up! There’s no room for gaps in this town!

I’d like to know who it was that pondered the gap at the outside the Bishopsgate Institute near Spitalfields and thought “there’s a gap I could eat my dinner off.” This, a gap that was, at the time, home to several smeggy bins. What followed was a lesson in lunacy - or a plan to you and I - that involved filling said gap with a cosy glass greenhouse of a restaurant, with indoor cast iron guttering. The outdoors has come inside to get warm.

In this restaurant wizards in suits conjure up the sourcery known as risk management at high wooden bench tables whilst their Blackberry mobile wands power up in the plug points provided.

Nearby, girlie chit-chatters play a game of Guess The Best Dessert, determining whether the rich, bitter, berry-heavy chocolate torte lords over the creamy, rich, thick, sweet-for-non-sweet-lovers lemon cheesecake, before deciding that, actually, both of them are absolute hit-it-out-of-the-park perfection.

In the corner, some aging family members from East Anglia visit with their kin; not once removing their cowboy hats even whilst they eat. Heart the traditionalism.

I’d like to know who is responsible for all this, and I’d like to shake them firmly by the hand because gaps, beware! Your time as grime gathering flâneurs is numbered. Society wants payback, you lazy loafers. A genius may happen upon you one day too and soon your dormant potential will also manifest as a retro grocery store cafe from the golden age of nostalgia, when hanging meats, butcher hook coat hangers, and wooden shelves stacked with jars of nuts and pickled eggs were commonplace. How amore!

Heed the romance, you recalcitrant urchin gap, you! This is not merely a gap-filling shop front. This is a scene from a movie, from EVERY movie. The soundtrack is (literally) When A Man Loves A Woman by Percy Sledge, and a beautiful blonde in an elegant red dress, scarlet lipstick, and wide brimmed hat sits on the platform of an old brick train station in some forgotten corner of the land. Steam billows around her. The train is set to leave. She checks her watch and looks around, nervously.

Cut to a flustered, well groomed slick back in slacks and a double breasted jacket sprinting toward destiny. Moments later, the train pulls away. The gentleman is left chuckling with his femme fatale over romantic candlelights in what seems to be the station’s waiting room (proper waiting room curtains, proper stone arch windows, proper waiting room clock).

The couple exchange flirtations over recommended (and rightfully so) tapas starters of rosemary-coated Manchego cheese with English quince, Serrano ham (large amount of), and a mean looking, outstandingly delicious chorizo scotch egg, swilled down with a gulp of dry white wine, of which there are many to choose from (as well as draft beers that most people will have never heard of; including seasoned food and wine writers).

Twisting one corner of his perfectly sculpted moustache, he glances over her shoulder, through the large waiting room windows, and out onto an unknown corridor where unknown pedestrians sit eating a multitude of boring sandwiches, reading the tomorrow’s news. He’s so very pleased to be where he is right now.

His daydream gaze is interrupted when the mains - dispatched on handmade crockery, wonky and tarnished, used and loved - arrive with a chirpy smile. Large enough to satisfy, but small enough to nurture the notion of dessert to follow, they are impeccable presented.

If ever there is a dish to convince him of love beyond the human realm, then the pancetta-wrapped hake with tenderstem broccoli is it. This salt-lover’s dream transcends mere feeling and thought, making pure joy a physical reality. He would say he loves it, only he’s speechless.

Built to silence chic young women, the butternut squash, sage and taleggio cheese risotto also proves its purpose. The piquancy of salubriousness floors her and a moment of hush falls across the table. Ensconced in this unique space, this moment of zen, the couple ponder the gap between this life and the next, in which they assume they’ve briefly discovered.

Indeed, if this erstwhile home of bins, and current stone, wood, metal, glass, coolly-lit provider of RBS building views doesn’t put the fear into gaps across London then chances are they’re not even in London.

Three perfect courses. A satisfying blend of forward thinking, referential inspiration, and romance. Cosy in that odd way that curling up in a B&Q showroom would be if all the staff had gone home. Bishopsgate Kitchen is a gap you wont certainly wont mind.

...read more

Customer Reviews for Bishopsgate Kitchen

Average (based on 1 votes): 1 Atmosphere: Value: Quality:

The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Bishopsgate Kitchen.

“I really have no reason to fault this new(ish) restaurant. It has so many different options in such a small place. Definitely order some sharers to start but ignore the mains at your peril because they are brilliant. Superb layout and use of the space, very inventive. It sort of has a nostalgic feel but with a modern twist. Bravo!!”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
The Restaurant Hunter, London (6 years 5 months 15 days ago)

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Additional Information

  • Cuisine Type: European
  • Group: Benugo

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