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Napa Restaurant (Restaurant, Hotel)

Picture of Napa Restaurant in Chiswick & Brentford, London

Chiswick Moran Hotel, 626 Chiswick High Road, Chiswick & Brentford, London, W4 5RY
Cuisine: British
Tel: 020 8996 5200 | Email to Napa Restaurant | Transport: Gunnersbury | Write review

Napa Restaurant Review

You probably wont find many reviews of Napa. Barring this one, there’s not much out there. Perhaps because only a handful of people have sampled its near perfect cuisine. Perhaps because those that have experienced this simple pleasure aren’t inclined to spout bloated opinions over the net. Or perhaps because the majority of Napa diners have little care for London-based websites, being that they’re mostly aliens visiting from the outer reaches of The M25 Exterior.

Now, this could just be wildly inaccurate speculation, but my guess is that most Napa regulars fall into one, if not most, of the following categories:
migrant shoppers en route to their new temple: the Westfield mall;
rugby nuts in transit, ready to sing hymns at burly, mud-clad men running about in a field in Twickenham;
green fingered geriatrics trundling towards the majesty of Kew Gardens;
dignitaries from the greenbelt world of business lured by the brights lights of city life (veiled behind a facade of corporate meetings)

Once they fall off the end of the M4 - conveniently only a few hundred metres away - many of these visitors panic about the inescapable congestion charge zone ahead of them. They stop, check their map, and realise the advantages a staycation at the four-star Chiswick Moran - London’s 83rd best hotel (according to Tripadvisor) - will bring. Only two minutes walk from Gunnersby tube station and furnished with a plush eatery that boasts a palm tree decking.

Napa - so called after its Californian namesake - is like being hosed by a fire engine blast of Americana. The cool, hip, died young in a car crash kind. The interior is very green, very squeaky, and very retro. Imagine walking into a big shiny car showroom only to realise that a lit cigarette is suddenly hanging from your lips, a swell dolly is hanging from your arm, and your jeans and T-shirt combo has transformed into an immaculately tailored grey suit. Have you just experienced some kind of heyday hiccup and wandered into the post-war economic boom of TV’s Mad Men?

Retro is absolutely everywhere. It’s on the walls, it’s in the music, it’s in the food, it’s even in the gel holding the waiter’s hair in place. Nostalgic modernity shines from the angular salt and pepper shakers. It waves from the psychedelic Perspex ovals suspended in the centre in the room. It glimmers in the eye of the joyfully glamourous ladies and gentlemen captured in the black and white snapshots adorning the walls. It also sings, thanks to the contemporary reinterpretations of the past - Winehouse, Duffy, Noisettes - and the actual living (once upon a time) legends of yesteryear - Sinatra, Darin, Simone - dancing in the air.

The chef is no stranger to glamour, either, being a former Quaglino’s employee. This being Little America, his menu is adequately proportioned with dishes that could use a little Stairmaster time themselves. There’s a ‘howdy’ of prawn cocktails, a ‘yee-haa’ of T-bones, and a ‘Yes, Mr President’ of warm apple pie and ice cream. All sentimentality aside, the claim for greatest entree goes to go to the rich, painfully decadent calves livers and pancetta, as recommended by the greatest of waiters: Victor (more waiters should be like Victor).

The rules of eating American are thus: if you have an authentic American appetite (i.e. you’re a man), the Chicken Maryland is deserving its own postcode it’s so large, yet it still unleashes a calvary of flavours. If you don’t have an authentic American appetite (ie. ladies, and chaps who only had their lunch only an hour ago), the perfectly sized, peppery pollock with roast vegetable couscous leaves that delightful element of ‘Yes we can’ in mind when questioned about the possibility of dessert. Plus, it perfectly suits the Santa Puerta Sauvignon Blanc - give the Pinot Grigio a miss for once, will ya?! - a highlight of the multifarious wine list.

The final chapter of this American trilogy is best left to the English: the Eton Mess. When that amount of cream fuses with that amount of fruity juiciness, it should really be called the Eton Messiah, oh glory be, especially when accompanied by a sweet, cheeky cheerleader of a dessert tipple: the Muscat de Beaumes de venise. Ra-Ra-Ra, indeed.

This is more than just the first decent feed off the M4 motorway. This is a great big slice of 1950s California which everyone who already lives in London simply has to try. Just remember to leave all trilbies and anachronistic attitudes at the door. That sort of thing doesn’t (time) travel well.

My theory? The CIA, the FBI or the YMCA are involved somehow. Is it a coincidence that the M4 heads dead West? The Road Chef at the Pont Abraham services in Wales is (supposedly) the terminus of the M4, at Junction 49, but what of Junction 50? A concealed exit to a tunnel that pops up somewhere in California perhaps? 50 junctions, 50 states. It’s all there. I’m just the messenger.

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Customer Reviews for Napa Restaurant

Average (based on 2 votes): 2 Atmosphere: Value: Quality:

The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Napa Restaurant.

“An elegant dining experience in Richmond, great art deco interior and very friendly and knowledgeable staff. An outdoor terrace with potted plants shields the view of the main road outside and the hotel bar looks like a lively place for post dinner drinks if the mood takes you.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Bronwen Stephens, London (8 years 10 months 1 days ago)

“People of Chiswick, listen up. This place is such a find. Sure, it's a restaurant in a fairly innocuous hotel and is mainly used by M4 motorway users (probably), but this could well be one of the best restaurants in the area. Retro design, top quality nosh (I'd recommend anything from the 'Classic Napa' range) and a great little terrace area out front too.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Leigh, Tooting (8 years 11 months 5 days ago)

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Additional Information

Napa Restaurant Food & Drinks

Napa Restaurant Food Menu

Our monthly changing a la carte menu provides a constant stream of seasonal classic dishes serves in Napa's own unique style!

Updated 23/03/2012

Napa Restaurant Hire Details

Napa is available for private hire year round.

Minimum spend is required to hire the space which is subject to the date of the enquiry

Updated 16/03/2009

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Venue ID: 19282

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Loved

"Hi guys, I come here with my friends and have very good time. I like your place very much and is very good times. I come back when I can soon. Thank you very much." Which venue is this?

Hated

"Dreadful pub, run by people who have zero idea about hospitality or running a pub. Upon arrival we sat in the back garden that only had one other table occupied , when we tried to order off the lunch menu..." Which venue is this?

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