Number 22 (Bar, Restaurant)

22 and all grown up.

Though located between Brixton and Dulwich this Herne Hill gem attracts more of the mature Dulwich set. It does this, not by having a Stannah stairlift installed, but by concentrating on really fine food (Spanish, more Fino than La Tasca), being non-smoking, selling Sherries and having 'grown-up' prices.

In no way is this bar fogey-ish though; this cosy egg-shell blue space is decked out with modern furnishings (caramel suede, dark wood), simple lines and neat touches (roaring fire, antique mirror, fresh lilies). It really is a lovely room.

And don't fear the Sherries either, they may be the Special Brew of the wine world (with its heftier vol. %) but I reckon they're 'the' thing to quaff at the moment. At £4 for a glass of Fino you can at least try it without breaking the bank and for the already converted they also do the Manzanilla by the glass at a loftier £8.

Number 22 also has an impressive cocktail list compiled by Soul Shakers, Michael Butt and Giles Looker (Trailer Happiness, The Player etc.). Additionally, there's a wine list with an organic/ Mediterranean bias.

On to grub, main courses from the full menu average around £15. A well-sourced slab of fresh swordfish was well worth the money and a scrumptious side of sautéed potatoes crusted with paprika (£2.50) is recommended.

There's also a short tapas menu (£3-5) with a great interpretation of these Spanish dishes like Manchego on quince toast or cubes of raw tuna. A Spanish Affair (£7) consisted of cured meats, brioche, pimiento stuffed with goats cheese and an artichoke, rocket and sun-blushed tomato salad.

Service was charming but needs tightening up a tad, cutlery was dropped on me (twice) and then a drinks order went unfulfilled. To be fair they did apologise for the mishaps. But after leaving I also noticed we were charged for two different types of wine (though we only had one) but hey ho.

Number 22 is a gorgeous find and since opening in February 2005 it's got itself a loyal local following. With such a small capacity (about 30) I suggest you book before you go. But please do go for a grown-up evening of excellent food, booze and more than just a bit of O Sherry amore....read more