Fish! Kitchen (Restaurant)

To most Brits, fish and chips are sacrosanct, but many restaurateurs look to put a new twist on established classics and this is exactly the intention with the new branch of fish! in south-west London; a step up from your local chippie with an emphasis on fresh and locally sourced produce.

The specials board advertises a full panoply of seafood options from razor clams to brill. The downside to fish that comes direct from the monger, however, is that you have to get it while it lasts. Upon arriving at the restaurant shortly after 7:30pm - to a lively atmosphere on a cold and wet December evening - choices such as lobster and John Dory were already sold out. What remained still managed to keep diners content, though. The Dorset crab was so fresh I almost expected a nip on the nose, while the prawn cocktail, a dish so often feckless and forgettable, had good ingredients right down to crisp lettuce and smooth mayonnaise.

A mark of quality can be seen when the basics are done well, and this was certainly evident with the haddock and chips. The fish was moist, tender and enrobed in fluffy batter while the chips were chunky but not greasy or flabby. The more exotic dishes are also worth a look: the meaty swordfish steak was cooked to perfection, laid out on a colourful bed of softened peppers.

The solid wine list is great for fish-lovers as well, with a crisp Pinot Grigio among the highlights. Disappointingly, however, the desserts were less successful. The insipid fruit crumble had a topping that lacked any crunch, although it was partially redeemed by the rich accompanying ice cream.

Where fish! East Sheen scores very highly is on the overall dining experience. The clean lines, bench-and-seat combo, and sizeable mirrors make for a convivial surrounding and the service is attentive and friendly throughout – not a bad combination for those times when you fancy fish and chips sitting down. It might be more of a draw for East Sheen-ers than a wider London crowd but the waitress summed this new establishment up perfectly when she told me: “This area needed a really good fish restaurant.”

It’s got one now.
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