The Red Fort Review

I regard Indian food as a friend, a good friend. We’ve known each other for years. We meet up often; whether for a quiet night in, lounging in front of the TV, or for a weekend powwow with other likeminded mates.

Needless to say, I feel I know Indian food quite well. Or, at least, I thought I did up until one fateful Monday.

Entering The Red Fort in Soho I noticed my friend looked different. There was a distinct lack of the fluorescent lighting and tacky artefacts I know my friend to usually display, there were no goldfish trapped in a watery prison and no overly dominant sitar music blaring. Instead my friend was dressed in Mughal art and architecture, low lighting and was accessorised in hints of red for a bit of pizzazz. I liked his new outfit; it fitted him well.

I opened my menu, a force of habit more than a necessity. I know what my friend has to offer me. It’s just a case of choosing whether to have chicken or lamb madras. But wait, what’s this? It seems my friend has reinvented himself; there is no option of anything ‘curried’. How strange, how novel.

‘Ok,’ I thought, ‘I’ll humour him’.

I ordered the lightly spiced monkfish with ginger and saffron to start, my equally bemused guest choosing to order the Scottish salmon with mustard oil and red chilli. Both were accompanied by a few small naan breads and dips more sophisticated than the mango chutney so commonplace.

I liked my friend’s changes. Both dishes were executed with an art worthy of a Michelin star or any other star available in this universe. What other surprises did he have for me?

During the mains of Welsh lamb and basmati rice with spices and corn-fed chicken in a spicy brown onion, coriander and red chilli sauce, beefed up with a few sides of baby aubergines and sautéed spinach, my friend showed me that unbeknown to me, he has a sophisticated palate. If this is Indian food, I don’t know what the hell it is I’ve been eating for years.

Usually by this point of the evening others have come to visit my friend. These others are nicely intoxicated and rowdier than a room full of England fans who have just learned they’ve won the World Cup. They never showed. Instead, a circle of friends I never knew my friend to have filled the room; I indentified them to be a refined bunch.

A selection of sorbets finished off a perfectly spiced meal and I sat contentedly mulling over all the new things I’d learnt. The Red Fort was a friend, just not one I knew. I’ll be back to continue to get to know him better.
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Faye Armstrong 28 Jun 2010

The Red Fort Description

The Red Fort has been a Soho institution in refined Indian cooking for more than 29 years.

With a pioneering mix of carefully sourced, seasonal British produce and sub-continental flavours, the restaurant has been the favourites of celebrities, musicians, entrepeneurs, politicians and dignataries over the years.

The kitchen specialises in a unique blend of Mughal Court cooking, producing sophisticated, delicately spiced dishes with the finest ingredients. Meat, fish and vegetable dishes are expertly cooked on the traditional grill, and fresh breads are baked to order in the large Tandoor ovens and served with a range of exotic homemade chutneys.

Special Offers at The Red Fort

• 50% off Food Bill

Customer Reviews for The Red Fort

Average (based on 1 votes): 1 Atmosphere: Value: Quality:

The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of The Red Fort.

“I was completely by accident that I stumbled upon The Red Fort. I was in the area; hungry and looking for somewhere to eat, when I passed by the window which showed a swarm of bodies inside. Always a good sign in my book. The staff were so lovely, finding me and my friend a table even though they were packed to the rafters. Although the prices were more then I tend to spend at an Indian restaurant the food was more than worth it! Honestly, I was surprised at the innovative dishes The Red Fort offer! I even had desert (which I never do – the little Punky toy ice cream thing has never appealed) and rolled out of the restaurant very happy and vowing to return! Find yourself in the area then go. Not in the area? Still go!”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Carolina Engleman, Hackney (2 years 10 months 26 days ago)

The Red Fort Opening Hours

Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: Indian
• Average Price: £45
• Dress Code: Smart Casual
• Website: Visit the The Red Fort website
• Group: (Independent/Freehouse)