Kettner's Review

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Best for: girl-watching; excellent service; and French restaurant occasions in the West End.

Great: Champagne; English wines; French mansion smack in the middle of Soho.

You cant wear shorts when you move up to big school. That was what the 11-year old ginger beanpole was told when he baulked at the idea of donning a trousered leg for the rest of his academic life. Yet, that boy’s stubbornness to submit to scholastic sartorial requirements proved telling, and even though he was, in the end, forced to wear ankle-length attire to school, he was already on the path of “no, why should I?”; ultimately, leading to him to a career writing reviews for a London bar and restaurant guide on something magical known as the interweb.

No innocent child at The Grove School in Shropshire was forced to witness my knobbly, carrot-haired knees, and, more importantly, I had decided that I knew what was best, and that, sometimes, change is not necessarily the best course of action. Sometimes you just need to put on a brave face (Michael Jackson and Colonel Gaddafi, take note).

They don’t wear shorts at Kettner’s French restaurant in Soho, and any facelifts that have occurred in its 145-year history must surely have been quite minor. Yet Kettner’s is as defiantly traditionalist as a kilt-wearing Scotsman on a decidedly windy day. This central London bar and restaurant is wedged in the cracks of time where molecular cocktails and experiments with mousse are considered frivolous and tawdry.

Cocktails are available at Kettner’s, but only as an after-thought; and the most daringly original dish on the food menu is a smoked salmon and potato pancake, which sadly delivers less than it promises. It’s abundantly clear that Kettner’s prefers the old-fashioned route 1 tactic: Champagne, chandeliers, and coq au vin. But this is not a polemic. No no, because, on the whole, I admire Kettner’s refusal to change.

So what if the elegant tiled floors, large weathered mirrors, brass-topped bar, and cast iron marble tables are not breaking new ground? My guest and I felt as though we were living the Belle Époque, as bon vivants of the good old days. One of us noted the cornicing; the other noticed the smell of fresh lilies when walking through the full (on a Wednesday night) restaurant.

In the bar, we’d been sipping joyfully on sparkling English wine, of which there is plenty (my preference over Champagne, of which there is also plenty). The aim of these bubbles is to kick start the amorous engines and we observed evidence of this in the bar’s Skylight room. Boy, were those two getting it on! Clearly a bar for lovers.

The restaurant had a young vibe. It also looked quite dressed down, as though it hadn’t had a hell of a day in the City, which was surprising for a West End restaurant such as this. It was also very female. There was a definite scent of Stylist in the air. It sat, cheerfully drinking wine by the glass (of which there is plenty), spreading office rumours, and extolling this whole anachronistic experience; much as we did.

The noise level was rightfully set to ‘Proper French Bistro’, but I pity the poor pianist. I’m sure he was very good. Not as good as the buffalo mozzarella-pancetta starter, though. Now, that WAS good.

I’ll wager that the crispy duck confit, although a little forlorn on arrival, was so delectable that were I to have walked through the kitchen to the rear door I would have no doubt witnessed a long queue of ducks, volunteering themselves for slaughter, perhaps even aiding the process by bathing in jus and a nice DeGras Carmenere whilst waiting.

I didn’t venture to the kitchen though. I was too busy falling over the edge of a precipice into an abyss of decadent Amaretti chocolate torte. I fell and fell and fell and only regained composure when an amaretto aperitif appeared before me, a drink that was simultaneously part biscuit, part roaring fire.

To become one of the best restaurants or best bars in London these days one must follow the protocol de rigueur and adhere to one or more of the following:

- Spearhead gastronomic dominance with Jamie’s smiling face, or any other celebrity chef (see also Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay and Dinner By Heston Blumenthal)
- Hedonism reigns in a period of austerity so throw high quality meat and cocktails into the mix and stand well back (see also MeatLiquor and Hawksmoor)
- Recreate the set of Cheers with stools and a cosy bar (see also Polpo and Spuntino)
- Shout “What The Dickens!” and adopt a twisted fascination with Victorian or Georgian England (see also Powder Keg Diplomacy and Worship Street Whistling Shop)

Even though Kettner’s defies the concept of trend, and despite the odd niggle here and there - dry beef bourguinon; fairly standard creme brulee - it still provides an occasion, a Soho locale, playful bubbles (no more Michael Jackson jokes, I promise), and several hours of deferential attentiveness, recommendations, and cordiality. And it does so without breaking the bank; although there are opportunities to waft the big bills if the occasion suits. Overall, an arresting experience. Oscar Wilde was arrested here, apparently. I bet he wore shorts to big school....read more

Christian Rose-Day 10 Feb 2012

Kettner's Description

Originally a series of four Georgian town houses, Kettner’s was first opened as a restaurant by Auguste Kettner, (chef to Napoleon III) in 1867. Popular with colourful characters of the time including Oscar Wilde, Edward VII, Lillie Langtry, Agatha Christie and Bing Crosby, Kettner’s was renowned for hosting incredible parties.

Gorgeously glamorous, Kettner’s today boasts a Brasserie, Cocktail and Champagne Bar and eight Private Rooms. The Grade II listed building has been refurbished and restored and with a brand new management team a fresh lease of life has been injected into this legendary Soho venue.

Kettner’s elegant 1930’s style Brasserie serves Modern European dishes all day with a range of menus to suit all occasions. Kettner’s is situated in the heart of theatre land and the Set Menu is the perfect choice at lunch and for pre and post theatre dining. Live music from Tuesday to Saturday on a beautiful white grand piano sets the evening ambience.

The Cocktail and Champagne Bar has an innovative cocktail menu inspired by the characters and legends of Kettner’s scandalous past. There is also a huge a range of over one hundred champagnes, with eleven served by the glass. The bar has two bookable ‘nooks’ for small groups; the Blue Nook and the Skylight Nook.

Amongst Kettner’s seven private spaces are the two showcase spaces; The Apartment and The Salle De Fête. The Apartment has a members club feel with a secret entrance on Greek Street. The space draws inspiration from a French film director’s lair, with wooden panelled walls, comfy ‘casting’ couches, a bespoke drinks cabinet and a grand piano. The Salle De Fête has an elegant, light and airy penthouse feel and comprises the two open spaces of the Salle and Attic Bar. Kettner’s also has a variety of smaller rooms which are perfect for meetings and private dining.

Don your finest, (or your favourite old cardigan,) and drink, dine and revel with us at Kettner’s....read more

Special Offers at Kettner's

• Pre and Post Theatre Menu - 2 courses for £16.50 and 3 courses for £19.50
• Sunday Lunch Menu - 2 courses for £17.50 and 3 courses for £21.50
• Kettner's Spring Menu - 2 courses and a cocktail £20 / 3 courses and a cocktail £25

Customer Reviews for Kettner's

Average (based on 7 votes): 7 Atmosphere: Value: Quality:

The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Kettner's.

“Excellent service, decadent decor, a sturdy wine list (ask for recommendations - lots of wines by the glass), some great Champagnes and sparkling white wines (especially the English offerings), and a fantastic Soho location. The restaurant menu is hit and miss - recommend the duck and the amaretto-chocolate dessert - whilst the bar is a great place for lovers to get cosy over a glass of bubbles.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
The Restaurant Hunter, London (1 years 3 months 21 days ago)

“A great night with friends at this famous champagne bar and restaurant. We were made to feel really special in a very relaxed and informal way in the stylish champagne bar. We then ate in the restaurant - the best beef bourgingon outside France and amazing puddings.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Kate, London (3 years 3 months 29 days ago)

“My first experience of the new improved Kettners was with my office Christmas lunch. The place was buzzing with festive spirit - clearly we weren't the only one to choose Kettners for our Christmas party! We were in a gorgeous private dining room on the first floor. Our waitress was charming and efficient even though she was clearly rushed off her feet. The food was good and the champagne even better...which might expain why I thought it was a good idea to show off my skills on the grand piano!! Can't wait to go back with friends.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Laura, London (4 years 4 months 28 days ago)

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Kettner's Opening Hours

Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: French
• Average Price: £25.00
• Dress Code: Smart Casual
• Website: Visit the Kettner's website
• Group: (Independent/Freehouse)