Cinnamon Soho by Vivek Singh Review

Book a table at Cinnamon Soho by Vivek Singh

Best for: unusual cocktails and puddings; Indian cuisine with a British twist.

Great: balls; Soho vibe; for post central London shopping dinner.

There’s a contractual agreement in place (no really, I still have the brownie stained napkin) that adolescent nicknames and unflattering comparisons will stay within my friendship group. Until today I’ve remained mute; abiding to the social norms and, in public at least, speaking only the birth-given names of my friends. But my editor has told me to be completely truthful in my reviews, and that is what this is; a completely true review, including the affectionate nicknames sworn never to leave our group.

Horsey Holly (she’s going to kill me) and I were led across a sterile white floor, passing a trendy Soho interior of primary colours - green lampshades, blue seats, yellow rimmed mirrors - and down a staircase, leaving the murmuring atmosphere of the semi-full upstairs behind, and instead being seated in a dark corner, mirrored by one other dining table at the opposite end of the long narrow room.

We were sat with the dining dead at Vivek Singh's third Indian restaurant, Cinnamon Soho, located mere moments from Carnaby Street and Oxford Circus. Upstairs seemed so much more vibrant with, you know, people. But, a spicy berry martini heated up the otherwise cold feelings I was having; perhaps too much. The gin cocktail - infused with figs, Naga bitters, lime juice, Frambroise and raspberries - set my mouth on fire. My tongue suddenly felt too large for my mouth and my wide-eyed expression alarmed Holly Horse. She quickly poured me a glass of ice water, urging “drink Ratty!” (yep, my nickname is Rat). I glowered at her as she laughed and dared me to eat the whole chilli resting on the edge of my glass.

Still chuckling, Holly took a sip of her own cocktail (Burning With Passion) only to find her laughter turn to spluttering. The vodka and rum made their escape up the pink straw and into her mouth, leaving behind the cocktail’s orange juice, passionfruit and strawberry puree. Poorly mixed, but on this occasion I feel karma has been just. Choking over, talk turned to Chubb (yes, another school friend). She’s had a slight argument with Moon Face but we reckon things will blow over.

I must tell you, I love balls, especially Cinnamon Soho’s balls. I’m not a smutty 50 Shades Of Grey reader, I’m referring to the starter of various balls: crab cake, potato bondas, vegetable shikampur, beef shammi kebab, and bangla-scotch egg. The selection of balls we shared were moist, perfectly formed and slightly spicy; read that how you will you filthy vermin. We questioned our attentive and informative waiter (his suggestion of a Hungarian Pinot Grigio matched perfectly with the balls, cancelling out their heat and complimenting the sweet chutneys) how many times a day he was required to say the word ‘balls’. The exasperated look on his face was the only answer we needed.

In our group, there’s a Rat, a Horse and even a Bear (ClaireBear) but no Lamb. If I remember correctly, it was Mary who had a little lamb. Only this lamb must have lost Mary’s trail because its saddle appeared on my plate, cooked in a spiced onion sauce, to melt-in-the-mouth perfection. I tried to find a nursery rhyme analogy for the seared sea bass, immortalised next to a bed of aubergine-potato crush, but Sebastian was a crab, Nemo a clownfish, and Flipper a dolphin.

Cinnamon Soho’s menu reads as British classics with an Indian twist (I’m told the pies are excellent) and is a far cry from Brick Lane at 11pm on a Friday night; whilst Cinnamon Soho doesn’t seem to have quite the same level of sophistication as its big sisters Cinnamon Club and Cinnamon Kitchen, or the same quality of space, it fits the Soho bill. That in mind, the restaurant is planning to launch an iPad ordering service; a method I was invited to trial to order a mango and cardamom brulee and intriguing chocolate and cumin cake with pistachio ice cream. Fun and interactive, perfect for the Soho. 

All good things come to an end, as do all average things it would seem. Cinnamon Soho has many things going for it; its menu features some real gems and, just off the cobbled walks of Carnaby Street, it’s perfect for dinner after shopping on Oxford Street or Regent Street, for example.

Expectations of the acclaimed Vivek Singh could be the reason why this restaurant might struggle though; being the latest and perhaps least sophisticated in the Cinnamon family, it might strain to compete with its successful siblings. Over time it’s likely to find its own identity and comparisons will cease to be made. If you look at Cinnamon Soho as a single entity, I can honestly say it’s a pleasant restaurant for a Horse and a Rat to spend two hours drinking fire and eating balls in....read more

Faye Armstrong 24 Jul 2012

Cinnamon Soho by Vivek Singh Description

Cinnamon Soho is the third restaurant from executive chef Vivek Singh. As Cinnamon Kitchen’s younger, cheekier sibling, the new Soho restaurant is one of the hottest tables in town with its accessible menu and central location.

Vivek, together with head chef Ramachandran Raju, has created an all-day menu that combines modern Indian fare with an unexpected nod to British favourites, while the design retains Cinnamon’s sleek style with a sexy Soho twist. Dishes include sticky desi pork back ribs; seared sea bass with aubergine-potato crush; and vindaloo of ox cheek. The showstoppers, however, are the range of Indian-inspired ‘balls’, such as crab cake and Bangla-Scotch egg, and exotic pies, such as Keralan seafood and rogan josh. Order a couple of plates and share the love.

And with all-day dishes, set lunch, pre- and post-theatre, a late-night supper menu of tasting plates and a collection of cool cocktails, Cinnamon Soho is a firm favourite with both foodies – and, just off the cobbles of Carnaby Street – fashionistas, too. ...read more

Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: Indian
• Group: Vivek Singh