Carom Review

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Best for: the finest curry in London.

Great: Sea Bass Kerala that might just render all other curries you have ever eaten utterly worthless.

At first glance, Carom is a somewhat inauspicious sight. Situated on Wardour Street, a location that radiates over-moneyed kitschy-cool, Carom is a bit of an anomaly. In fact, if anything, its hulking bouncers and deep-red lighting suggest something more in line with a 1970s strip-joint than one of London's most exciting new culinary prospects.

On entering, I must admit that I half-expected to find a gyrating John Travolta wheeling around the room, or perhaps see Ted Heath and Harold Wilson knocking back Babychams and battling over the heart of the nation at a table nearby; an activity that I presume they regularly carried out in such a setting. Even once placed at your table, the lighting is so dim and seductive that you feel like you might have inadvertently stepped into that scene from The Thomas Crown Affair where Faye Dunaway and Steve McQueen suck each other's pawns (1968, I know, but let's not quibble).

Such an atmosphere, in spite of its ability to draw us all back to the glory days of both the 'three day week' and the 'winter of discontent', is not entirely what one is looking for when heading out for a curry these days. Instead, in such an environment, one cannot help but expect a classic English curry of yore, complete with the full requisite of cream, lager, processed chicken, lager, cream, and lager. It was to Carom's great credit, therefore, that these gross misconceptions were proven to be utterly fatuous. In flagrant disregard of my blatant snobbery, and in full support of the old adage 'Never Judge An Indian Restaurant By Whether Or Not It Looks Like A 1970s Strip-Bar', Carom transpired to be a revelation. I credit it, single-handedly, with reigniting a love of curry that I formerly believed I had drowned long ago in a boozy sea of late-night Korma.

Since opening in November 2011, the restaurant has, in fact, developed a considerable reputation, and something of a following. The great charm of the restaurant is undoubtedly driven by its exceptional Head Chef, Balaji Balachander, formerly the sous-chef at the Michelin-starred Benares restaurant in Mayfair. It is his vision of bringing Indian street-food to our plates (and at no great damage to our pockets, believe it or not) that sets Carom above its competition.

The exceptional character of Balachander’s cooking draws heavily on his understanding of the subtleties of real Indian cuisine (so often forgotten here in Britain), whilst adding the refined touch of a man who has worked in exceptional restaurants both in London and in his native India. A number of his dishes really are excellent, with the Sea Bass Kerala the true highlight. Packed with a richness of flavour that never threatens to overpower the taste of the sea bass itself, it may well be one of the best dishes, let alone curries, you will eat this year.

The wine list and cocktails are another considerable bonus here too, in particular the cocktails, but it is the food and not the booze that is the real draw; and that is surely the way that a true curry-house should be. It is a rare treat to find a place like Carom, and if you really are ready to expose yourself to the cold embrace of the 1970s and the 'winter of discontent' once more, you might just stumble across the best Indian restaurant in London today.

As Richard III once noted,
“Now is the winter of our discontent,
Been made glorious curry by this restaurant.”

...read more

Josh Williams 04 Apr 2012

Carom Description

Carom, in the heart of Soho is a Pan Indian restaurant and bar, with an inspiring menu developed by head chef Balaji Balachander. Enjoy cocktails in our Atrium or speciality Indian beers and Whisky at the bar.

Special Offers at Carom

• Cocktails and Spice - 4 tasting dishes paired with 4 matching cocktails, £60 for two people sharing
• Express Lunch - 2 courses for £8.00, 3 courses for £11.95
• Cocktails and Spice - 4 Tasting dishes paired with 4 matching cocktails, £30 per person
• Pre-theatre Menu - 2 courses for £10 and 3 courses for £11.95
• Traveller Menu - 2 courses for £10 and 3 courses for £15
• Beer Tower and Sharing Platter - 8 pint beer tower & a sharing platter for £12.50 per person, minimum 4 people.

Carom Opening Hours

Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: Indian
• Group: D&D London