Citrus Review

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Best for: delicious Italian food, wines by the glass, odd wallpaper

Great: friendly service, Piccadilly/Green Park location, tiramisu

Myself and my companion - Mr JD, a distinguished figure of society, thus the anonymity - enjoy, on occasion, to take leave of our routines and fashion a troublesome twosome intent on nothing more than exploration. These endeavours tend to manifest as sporadic ventures into areas of London known to us least.

On one such peregrination recently Mr JD and I found ourselves promenading at the idle end of Piccadilly. The weather was in a particularly capricious mood that day, so we decided to seek refuge at the Park Lane Hotel. Dusting ourselves down and straightening our ties, we took stock of our grand surroundings: a most elegant, luxurious and enticing entrance as ever a man is likely to see. Naturally, this being Mayfair, Mr JD was accustomed to such opulence, and noted that he had visited the establishment previously.

As the rains did not immediately cease, we thought it best to take an early supper and entered the hotel restaurant, Citrus. Our immediate impression was one of bafflement, before we moved onto to a main of curiosity and a dessert of scepticism; all before we’d even sat down. The decor was as confused as we were, and the popular music playing over the gramophone was too contemporary for my liking and not in keeping with its habitat. The light coloured, marble floor fought with the wallpaper for attention, the latter winning consummately due to its repeated covering of the same doll-like face. I’ll admit, the prospect of consuming dinner with a thousand pair of eyes staring down at me was wholly unsettling at first, but I grew to like it by the end. Mr JD was not so assured.

We were seated in the window by the Manager, a fabulously voluble young lady from Sweden. Our positioning afforded us a vantage point to look out into the precipitation, to lose ourselves in a momentary reverie, caught in a blur of hasty traffic, foreign guests perambulating in top hat and tail finery, and vagabonds occasionally seeking their charity. Sadly, the tawdry seating and canopy arrangement outside looked like a cheap imitation of a Montmartre cafe and was incongruous amongst its neighbouring pomp. But this is not Paris, and certainly not Montmartre. This is Mayfair, in good old Blighty, God bless her.

But here I wish to end my tirade against the peccadillo that is the aesthetics of Citrus, for our visit was, by and large, most gratifying. Firstly, the alacrity of the staff was remarkable and I defy anywhere in London to better it.

Secondly, the menus for comestibles (Italian in accent) and libations (likewise favours Italy, nearly all by the glass) were extensive and entirely satisfactory; although I prefer not to see a menu laminated or printed en masse, it doesn’t speak freshness in my ear.

To balance this, a temporary regional menu is offered, lasting some 4-6 weeks, with Sardinia being our pot luck on this occasion. Having holidayed there only recently, Mr JD chose wisely from this menu, and was enamoured with the crisp bread, asparagus and artichoke when it arrived. I, meanwhile, settled for the recommendations of our Swedish expert. My gooey vitello tonnato to start possessed a piquant vinegar pungency which proved, in my mind at least, that a marriage between a tuna and a young cow is truly lawful.

Whilst waiting on our mains, we sipped on our delightful gooseberry scented Gavi di Gavi (an underrated area of Italy, it must said), and conversed about the qualities of being bored whilst on holiday. The feeling of having nothing, yet everything, to do should never be underrated. The elderly gentleman reading a novel at the next table certainly looked consumed by ennui of life. He may have been on holiday. Beyond him, some mothers and their kin chatted gleefully. And further still, a couple of old Nanas were making light work of the Italian artisan cheeseboard.

My beautifully presented main of cod ‘al cartoccio’ was simply spellbinding. Mr JD was somewhat withdrawn, concerning himself more in a conversation with his excellent chargrilled tender pork loin with fig & apple salad. I, likewise, was having a gay old time squeezing lemon through mesh and slathering salsa verde all over the white fleshy cod.

The apogee of our evening was the licentious dessert, crafted, no less, by the Pastry Chef of the Year, an Irish lady so unforthcoming about her tiramisu recipe, that she works alone from 4am to add her secret ingredient. If I were a speculative sort, I’d wager it was Baileys. Well, she is Irish after all.

To summarise, an experience which proved most pleasing for two young, adventurous chaps. Although apropos the name: why Citrus? It sounds too modern. I add the caveat that a cohesion between decor, ambiance, food and service is what maketh a perfect restaurant.

All anachronistic storytelling aside, Citrus should really be plundering the best of the bygone eras and taking its guests back to a time when this section of Piccadilly wasn’t just a stopping point between Hard Rock Cafe and Leicester Square. If The Ritz can do it, why shouldn’t Citrus?...read more

Christian Rose-Day 16 Sep 2010

Citrus Description

A casual Italian restaurant, located on Piccadilly overlooking Green Park. Here you will find modern Italian cuisine, with a citrus twist, all of it prepared in house using local and Italian ingredients. Only the fresh pasta is supplied by a dedicated Italian producer in London.

All is served in a stylish environment, by friendly waiters who enjoy what they do.

You can also dine al fresco during the summer months.

Customer Reviews for Citrus

Average (based on 1 votes): 1 Atmosphere: Value: Quality:

The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Citrus.

“My girlfriend and I found this restaurant totally by accident whilst we were walking to the Shepherd’s Market area of Mayfair. And what a find! Quite the hidden gem. The atmosphere was slightly lacking but the food (mostly Italian) was really top notch, and fairly cheap considering its location right on Piccadilly (and the quality). The service was also excellent, all the staff there were really chatty, but overly so. And the wallpaper; how unusual! Worth a visit for that alone.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Simon, Barnet (2 years 8 months 1 days ago)

Citrus Opening Hours

Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: Italian
• Average Price: £35.00
• Dress Code: Smart/Casual
• Group: Sheraton