The Kitchen Front Museum Cafe Review

There are some things in life that should never go together. For me, this is the case with socks and sandals, excessive drinking and early morning presentations, the Liberal Democrats and the Conservatives, or the worst sin of all, pineapple and pizza.

On the other hand, I have sometimes been surprised with the hitherto unexpected genius of certain pairings; salt and vinegar crisps dipped into cream cheese, or peanut butter and a spoon. Now I add a newly discovered weird but good combination - food and history - to my list.

The Imperial War Museum café, currently known as the The Kitchen Front, has been getting down and dirty with some history, to the point where spam sandwiches are again on a menu in the UK (no I didn't try them, we all have our limits when it comes to food exploration).

Their new menu, developed by Dan Stevens who used to work for River Cottage, is either made up of recipes used during the Second World War or recipes that he has developed while keeping in mind the rationing that was necessary at that time. Everything comes from local suppliers so the food is all very seasonal. This is partly because the food will be better and also for historical accuracy. Food travelling by sea was liable to be bombed. One of the main problems during the war was the move from importing the majority of produce to growing it in Britain.

History lesson aside, the café doesn’t look particularly special. The tables and floors can be easily wiped when overexcited children (or adults) are present. It’s a museum café, after all, so it’s busier on the weekends when there are more people visiting. During the week it’s mainly tourists and school groups.

What makes the place interesting is not its décor but the concept that they are trying out. They are making dishes from another era, so it’s a historical experience for the senses and, as a history geek, I think that is pretty damn cool.

The food is simple, plain and very traditionally English. This is the 1940s and fusion food would mean adding raisins to a meat stew. I went for a shepherd’s pie and my companion went for a baked potato with Marmite, cheese and leeks (here is another surprisingly good combination, Marmite and potato, obviously a love or hate situation). The food was good but not incredibly exciting, but then it wouldn’t have been.

Along with serving historical food, Company of Cooks - the catering company who are currently running the café - are sponsoring a special exhibition about the Ministry of Food. My companion and I did the exhibition first, sauntering around in about half an hour. It is definitely worth doing in that order, because you can then eat the scone with mock cream (margarine and sugar whipped together) and know why it is that they seem to have mislaid the appropriate dairy product. In regards to the mock cream, it’s actually rather nice although nothing like actual cream.

Personally, I think this could be the beginning of a major new restaurant trend (if so, remember you saw it predicted here first). We already have global food but the historical food market is barely touched. What about Stone Age antelope or some medieval roast swan? What about some good old fashioned roman banqueting? I would be very willing to go further down the food/history combination. Well, as long as no one makes me eat Spam.
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The Kitchen Front Museum Cafe Description

Visit Kitchen Front, run by exhibition sponsors Company of Cooks, on the ground floor of the Museum to sample their delicious new menu based on original wartime recipes from the Museum’s archives.

Pork belly, cabbage and apple stew, cheese and lentil pie, and corned beef, beetroot and horseradish salad are just a few of the dishes on offer, in addition to a fantastic selection of cakes, biscuits, pastries and special options for children.

Kitchen Front is open 10.00am – 5.30pm. Fully Licensed.

Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: British
• Group: (Independent/Freehouse)