four o nine Review

Book a table at four o nine

Four O Nine was recently awarded the 2010 Hidden Gem Award (presented at Taste London, Best in Taste Awards) and it’s easy to see why. Glancing at the address, I feel pretty stupid realising the name and street number correspond until it’s nowhere to be seen – hidden, it certainly is! A discreet doorway tucked behind Clapham North.

Pressing the buzzer, announcing our arrival and gaining entry, we wonder if we’re walking into a strip joint. But upstairs there are no poles, podiums or dancers in sight. Paul, the manager, warmly greets us, leading us to a candlelit window table overlooking the road. Sunshine streams through, occasionally blinding us, so we focus our attention on the menu, a succinct single page that still challenges the senses in its selection of entirely tempting dishes.

Settling on the buffalo mozzarella and goats cheese salad to start, we put our trust in Mario, our helpful waiter, for the drinks. With over 120 wines from the Old and New World to choose from, it’s overwhelming. For Mario, however, it isn’t. Despite it only being his second shift, he expertly selects a wine we’d already been eyeing up: The Opportunist, a Sauvignon Blanc Riesling. Plied with a refreshing watermelon gazpacho followed by generous, seemingly unlimited, top-ups of potato and sultana breads, we feel spoilt and it’s not long before the starters arrive.

Sampling each other’s selections we have to admire our choices – the mozzarella is light and tasty, accompanied by cherry tomatoes, basil pistou and white peaches, while the goats’ cheese has an aniseed kick.

Our wine arrives and sitting back to savour its crisp citrus tang, we take in our surroundings. From one side the dining area smacks of opulence with paisley velvet effect wallpaper that wouldn’t be out of place in 60 Minute Makeover. The other end, however, reminds me of an art-house café with beige minimalist wallpaper and black leather buttoned-up covered pillars. Above, the ceiling is reminiscent of the inside of a sauna with wooden slats enveloping small circular spotlights.

By the time my caramelised duck arrives along with my fellow diner’s roast hake, Four O Nine is packed (for a Wednesday night). Young professional couples in evening attire, or trendily clad in “Cas Money”, chat loudly. Rather bizarrely, there’s a disproportionately high ratio of blue stripy-shirted men. Maybe they have a secret society and tonight is their monthly get-together.

Resting back in the padded grey swivel chairs, we’re full (comfortably so) but Paul isn’t finished with us just yet and offers up the comprehensive and unusual dessert menu. Overwhelmed by the choice and drawn to the panna cotta, I manage to somehow show restraint, opting for a creamy dessert cocktail.

Four O Nine has certainly earned its “Hidden Gem” award, serving food that would be hard to recreate at home – exquisite fine dining without the pretence. Loyal Four O Nine clientele revisit to sample new dishes on the regularly updated menu - being confronted with a door and buzzer may be intimidating at first but what lies beyond is certainly worth the risk and booking is virtually essential to avoid missing out on becoming part of this intimate elite group of well-fed diners.
...read more

four o nine Description

This first floor restaurant is conveniently located opposite Clapham North tube station, and is reached by a private entrance on Landor Road marked only by a stunning brass doorknob. The restaurant is warm and inviting and the emphasis is on outstanding food, attentive service, a relaxing environment and an element of exclusivity unique in Clapham.

An verchanging menu of Modern European dishes are complemented by an impressive wine list of over 120 global wines.

Manager Paul Williamson, says;
"fouronine is a real hidden gem - it may be a bit tricky to find, but worth the effort! First class food and service in cosy and inviting surroundings, we believe in a quality approach to everything we do."

four o nine Opening Hours

Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: European
• Average Price: £35.00
• Dress Code: Not Specified
• Group: (Independent/Freehouse)