Royal Exchange Grand Cafe & Bar Review

Book a table at Royal Exchange Grand Cafe & Bar

In light of the Royal Exchange setting, I had high hopes that I might be dining within some form of cattle market for royals, where minor British royals could be traded for a Spanish Princess or two.

I soon realised that I might have misinterpreted the building’s title, instead of ‘Wife Swap with the Windsors’, I found myself in what used to be London’s 16th Century financial hub, nestled in the heart of The City, a handful of paces from Bank underground. The Grand Café & Bar is located in the atrium of this impressive and imposing building. These days the Royal Exchange is principally an exclusive shopping centre, with outlets such as Cartier, Hermès and De Beers attracting the attentions of footballers’ mistresses and thieves alike.

The vast carved stone walls that surround the atrium, sitting upon the beautiful tiled floor, create a stunning courtyard setting. This D&D Group venture has a format very much in the vein of Piccadilly’s ever popular Wolseley, offering a smart café environment in which to enjoy all meals of the day; from breakfast through to a late bite.

Despite the stunning setting, there is a distinct lack of atmosphere. The fact that I was sitting in the middle of a shopping centre was inescapable. With shoppers milling about and people using this venue as a thoroughfare, the feel is very much that which you might find in a Garden Centre café – albeit with diamonds taking the place of the hydrangeas. It seems that when it came to planning the layout of the venue, all of the money was spent on building an über modern bar and little was left in the coffers to employ someone who was qualified (I’m sure there must be a University course covering it these days) in the art of setting out tables, which have simply been strewn around.

To be fair, the Grand Café is not going for stiff and starchy. The absence of table cloths combined with the wooden, café style tables and chairs creates a relaxed atmosphere and seeks to invite a mixed clientele. For a period, when it was still operating as the country’s financial centre, bankers were actually banned (clearly their reputation hasn’t changed much over the past few hundred years). Today, this is not the case and bankers are free to roam as they please. Despite this, the Grand Café has a varied customer base: friends and colleagues meeting for an after work bottle of wine or glass of bubbles; those who seek sustenance after a tough day shopping; and those who come just to unwind.

The menu is an eclectic mix of ‘Modern European’ fare that doesn’t really have a place sitting together on a menu. The lunch menu includes a lobster and avocado brioche roll at over £18, in my mind an absurd amount to ask for a sandwich – unless a diamond from one of the surrounding shops was thrown into the deal.

The tiger prawns that arrived as my starter were enormous, large enough that I would certainly not want to encounter one of them whilst swimming in the sea, or in a swimming pool for that matter. Fortunately, on this occasion, they arrived char-grilled, so rather than menacing they were meaty and satisfying. The flash of British racing green that came from the fennel puree accompanying the scallops was velvety and sweet. Having then expected the mains to not live up to the same high standards I was pleasantly surprised to bite into a steak that was juicier than the thigh of any milkmaid you may find in one of Thomas Hardy’s novels. The cheese board which showed off the best of British was accompanied by fresh and tangy piccalilli, something I haven’t eaten for years and which, when not a bizarre luminous colour like the jarred monstrosity that I recall, was a clever addition. Added to this and despite the informal atmosphere, the service was excellent, remaining attentive without standing over my shoulder.

If you want formal then this is not the place to go, it is the relaxed atmosphere that sets the Grand Café & Bar apart as an option when high-backed chairs in a formal dining establishment just feel too awkward. The food was excellent, though rather pricey for the setting. This is somewhere that you can share a starter or two and have a great bottle of wine. I will certainly be going back to share their charcuterie board and another bottle of their excellent Sancerre.
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Alex Williams 03 Sep 2010

Customer Reviews for Royal Exchange Grand Cafe & Bar

Average (based on 2 votes): 2 Atmosphere: Value: Quality:

The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Royal Exchange Grand Cafe & Bar.

“Really enjoyed the food, can't say the atmosphere was great.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Michael, london (2 years 7 months 26 days ago)

“I had a great night in the Royal Exchange. A quirky atmosphere, good food, as well as the opportunity to gawap at the surrounding boutique diamond specialists certainly makes for an intriguing dining experience.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Jake Orange, London (2 years 8 months 21 days ago)

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Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: European
• Average Price: £40.00
• Dress Code: Not Specified
• Group: D&D London