Great Taste at the Cadogan Review

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Best for: the best of the best British produce.

Great: fine and dandy dining in sublime surroundings.

The name is Lillie. Not Lily. Don’t you forget it. Don’t forget that I was once the favourite grande dame of high society, mistress to Prince Albert, and, thanks to my best pal Ossie (that’s Oscar Wilde to you), I’m an accomplished actor on stage. I’m also an appreciator of fine wine and good food. So much so that I’ve been asked to taste the latest menu in my own London home - The Cadogan Hotel’s restaurant - despite its name change from Langtry’s (in my honour) to the rather longwinded Great Taste at The Cadogan in Belgravia.

The latest menu has been curated by Thomasina Miers (the winner of BBC MasterChef and owner of Wahaca Mexican restaurants) and Lucas Hollweg (author of Good Things to Eat). Head Chef, Oliver Lesnik has worked closely with Lucas and Tommi and chosen gold-star ingredients.

Bertie (aka HRH Prince Albert) is in a strop as per usual so I shan’t be taking him. I’ll take Oscar instead. His wicked wit will keep me entertained. My lily white complexion has developed a rather grey pallor. Ossie says I’m in need of some great tasting food made from award winning products from around Britain. “The best for the best.” He is a charmer that Mr Wilde!

Our host, Olivia, encourages Ossie and I to sit in the Drawing Room to sip a glass of Sauvignon while the table is set. I always find it so tranquil at The Cadogan, a lovely escape from the hustle and bustle of London life. Being a society darling can be frightfully tiresome. Something Tommi Miers can surely relate to; winning MasterChef is life changing! I myself cannot cook a thing, other than to bake a Jersey potato.

Once escorted by Olivia to a table by the window, Ossie sits on the sofa seat and sinks right down, much to my amusement. It takes two cushions to prop him back up again to my level. My chuckles continue even when nibbling on the fresh bread drizzled with a hazelnut infused olive oil.

I’m useless at matching wines with food so I decide to stick with the Sauvignon. Ossie has a rather fishy disposition so opts for the cured mackerel from Llandudno Smokery with peas, pickled radish and a chilli dressing. I go for the steak tartare furnished with a poached pheasant egg and wagyu beef dripping produced at Alternative Meats Ltd. It’s not often I find myself lost for words but that poached egg really silences me; exquisite.

For mains we both decide on fish: the sea trout with a roasted Nori seaweed dressing; and a signature dish of pollock baked in salt dough. After ordering, I fret a little about not opting for the rabbit ravioli and loin dish, but a taste of the pollock with a scoop of pressed fennel and potato sets my mind at ease.

Ossie and I talk of many things: the latest scandals of high society, his latest work, and our latest love interests. It’s hard to admit but Ossie’s far more flamboyant than I. And yet, I am more beautiful. There’s a party hosted in the next dining room and everyone keeps staring at my new black dress.

For dessert, it’s only fair we pay homage to the creative duo of this great menu. Ossie practically squeals over Tommi’s chocolate & chilli cake while Lucas’s old fashioned whiskey trifle is the boozy cherry on top of what has been a stupendous dining experience. “There is no such thing as a moral or immoral trifle,” Ossie comments. “Trifles are well-layered or badly layered. That is all.” Genius words indeed.

After a moment of wickedness, I can hear the angels sing! My critics scoff because I live in a hotel but the joke is essentially on them. I am just a few staircases away from the greatest and tastiest menus in all of Great Britain. In the 6-8 weeks that this menu is available I can dine here every evening. If I get bored, I know a new menu will pop-up soon after. Future guest curators include Charles Campion, Fay Maschler and Bill Knott and the showcase restaurant will run throughout the whole year into next.

Anyone's life truly lived consists of work, sunshine, exercise, soap, plenty of fresh air, and a happy contented spirit; as well as a meal at Great Taste at The Cadogan in Belgravia.
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Nina Koo-Seen-Lin 22 May 2012

Special Offers at Great Taste at the Cadogan

• Jazz at The Cadogan - Enjoy dinner and hear the delighted sounds of some of the Best Jazz musicians in Britain
• Jazz at The Cadogan - Enjoy afternoon tea and hear the delighted sounds of some of the Best Jazz musicians in Britain

Customer Reviews for Great Taste at the Cadogan

Average (based on 1 votes): 1 Atmosphere: Value: Quality:

The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Great Taste at the Cadogan.

“Went here last week with my best friend. We absolutely loved it. I firmly believe that if we weren't in such a prestigious place we would have licked our plates clean! The food was delicious. The pollock baked in salt dough is brilliant. My friend did have the rabbit ravioli and I was only allowed to have one mouthful before she gobbled it all up. The venue holds so much history (apparently Oscar Wilde was arrested in the hotel!) and it's so grand and beautiful. Yet it's not snooty. Everyone from the host to the waiters were charming to us throughout. Definitely want to go back again and see what the next menu has to offer.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Emma, London (1 years 1 days ago)

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Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: British
• Group: (Independent/Freehouse)