Grand Union Islington Review

Best for: Nachos and generous portions.

Great: A fun, informal dinner out.

Before Meat Liquor, Honest Burger and various other so-cool-we-name-the-cows-and-sprinkle-sawdust-on-the-floor establishments popped up, there was Grand Union.

Promising good food, a lively, fun atmosphere and décor, Grand Unions may have attracted less attention than some of London’s newer burger joints, but the steady emergence of Grand Unions and recent refurbishments of some existing GUs is proof that Grand Union is doing well. No gimmicks needed.

Like most London chains, the Grand Union pubs and restaurants were born out of the success of the first Grand Union in Camden, which took its name from the Grand Union Canal it backs onto. Grand Unions have since popped up in Brixton, Kennington, Camberwell and Islington, nowhere near any waterways.

The second Grand Union to open, the Islington branch on the Highbury end of Upper Street, is bar restaurant mecca. So how does it survive against such a high level of competition? Here are Grand Union’s five rules to being a successful chain. Competitors, take note.

1. Have a little personality
Who said all chain venues have to be exactly the same? While all Grand Unions have a similar shabby chic feel to the décor, the use of mismatched furniture allows each chain to feel like it isn’t a complete clone. High backed brown leather banquettes, huge tapestry rugs, prints in an array of frames and a proliferation of chintzy lampshades create a cosy feel to Grand Union Islington, even though the walls are painted a more urban shade of black/charcoal. Compare this to the pink outdoor bar and tree houses at Grand Union Wandsworth or the rose wallpaper at newer GUs Farringdon and Paddington, and you have proof that it’s OK to be a chain and a bit different.

2. Less is not more
You don’t choose burger and chips if you want a light meal, you eat them to feel full and our Grand Union Islington feast was certainly filling. A supersize bowl of nachos, served with delicious guacamole, salsa, sour cream and cheese would have probably been food enough between the two of us if we hadn’t ordered our mains and therefore had to resist the urge to finish off the whole lot. The £9 Fully Loaded comes with salty, perfectly crisp streaky bacon, mature cheddar cheese and onion rings as well as Grand Union’s tangy BBQ sauce. The onion rings were crunchy and, despite fearing I may lock my jaw biting into the burger, it was worth the effort. Mini hamburger canapés? Pffft!

3. Play on
Late opening bars with music and dancing are hardly the exclusive domain of Grand Union bars but extended opening hours adds to the multi-functionality of Grand Union Islington. We are here for a meal – the thought of dancing after our burger stacks and nachos induces meat-infused sweats – but other punters make the most of the cocktail hours. I spy a couple of first or early dates but also a couple of larger groups who arrive as we leave and no doubt intend to stay for a while.

4. Happy hour is not long enough
Happy hour lasts an extended three hours every day at Grand Union Islington on a range of cocktails. With many happy hours ending far too early, it’s refreshing, not to mention incredibly handy, to still be able to buy cheap drinks at a reasonable hour of the evening. On the downside, cocktail staples like the Mojito and Cosmopolitan aren’t included in the promotion and the cocktails that are, such as the Kentucky Honey Bee (Jim Beam Black, honey, angostura bitters, lemon & lemonade) or Spiced Oak (Bacardi Oakheart, Blue Curaçao, apple juice & lime) are definitely at the sweeter end of the scale.

5. Allow reservations
Why is it that so many new London restaurants don’t allow reservations anymore? Soooo frustrating. The only way round it is to meet for an exceptionally early dinner straight after work or convince yourself as you queue out in the cold or buy overpriced drinks at the restaurant’s bar until a table becomes free that the hour’s wait is worth it. Hurrah for Grand Union, then, that allows reservations. Bloody hurrah. ...read more

Nathalie Bonney 08 Nov 2012

Customer Reviews for Grand Union Islington

Average (based on 3 votes): 3 Atmosphere: Value: Quality:

The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Grand Union Islington.

“Sorry miss G, but you are totally wrong. The Grabd Union win as best bar in London and Angel and evevry else it is. It rocks!”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
bb, London (10 months 2 days ago)

“Great little bar - always packed out thursday and fridays when i've been. Nice cocktails and bloody good burgers.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
John Simmonds, London (4 years 1 months 26 days ago)

“The Grand Union Islington is the way forward amazing decor, great drinks, finger licking food but most of all the best staff that will do anything to help, you have to try it to understand.”
Atmosphere: Value: Quality:
Alex Smith, London (5 years 4 months ago)

Grand Union Islington Opening Hours

Additional Information

• Cuisine Type: American
• Average Price: £10.00
• Dress Code: Casual
• Website: Visit the Grand Union Islington website
• Group: GU Group